This started off as one man's inane, self indulgent, less than informative and potentially extremely boring drivel about his yacht and other random sailing misadventures...
However, as time went on i realised that there was so many other potentially boring and inane activities i was undertaking and why should i limit this to just sailing...
Monday, September 27, 2010
The Hatch...and The Issue...
And the piccys of the gap between the existing deck and the hatch...
So as mentioned previously the plan is to make a timber frame / sleeve to fit between the window and the existing opening...just need to get advice on how to seal the timber...
Response from Impy (Robin) on www.tscom.org - I just put it here so i would be able to find it again...
Looks as if the seal on the hatch relies on pressure to stop water seeping in or does it have provision for a lip on the deck coming up a little? A lip is better as this provides a more positive seal. You could make an infill in the existing openning to make it smaller to suit. Maybe easier is to screw and glue (we'll go onto glues later so pay attention. ) a piece of ply over the whole openning which you can then cut with the poofy curves to suit the hatch. Curves are nice but pose their own problems. I would cover the end grain of the ply with a timber strip to protect and help seal against moisture. This can be made to protrude upward a bit to act as a lip around inside the hatch. Hence the drama with curves, this would be easier if the cut-out was square. Jeddas are plastic aren't they (grp) Hard to see what the underside of the deck is. Might have to bolt the ply piece on. If you go epoxy will need to sand the gel coat down where you are glueing to to help bonding. Epoxy should do the job. Sikaflex would be ok for a while but probably leak eventually. Make sure you seal the timber with an epoxy sealer first, glue this to the deck and then paint all over. Don't glue paint to the deck, it will come off, the glue bond will only be as good as the paint bond. I'd use epoxy, good stuff. Epoxy sticks to polyester but polyester doesn't stick to epoxy. Polyester doesn't stick to timber either, not very well anyway. Pull your finger out son, we want to see some progress by next weekend.
Response from Impy (Robin) on www.tscom.org - I just put it here so i would be able to find it again...
ReplyDeleteLooks as if the seal on the hatch relies on pressure to stop water seeping in or does it have provision for a lip on the deck coming up a little? A lip is better as this provides a more positive seal.
You could make an infill in the existing openning to make it smaller to suit. Maybe easier is to screw and glue (we'll go onto glues later so pay attention. ) a piece of ply over the whole openning which you can then cut with the poofy curves to suit the hatch. Curves are nice but pose their own problems. I would cover the end grain of the ply with a timber strip to protect and help seal against moisture. This can be made to protrude upward a bit to act as a lip around inside the hatch. Hence the drama with curves, this would be easier if the cut-out was square.
Jeddas are plastic aren't they (grp) Hard to see what the underside of the deck is. Might have to bolt the ply piece on. If you go epoxy will need to sand the gel coat down where you are glueing to to help bonding. Epoxy should do the job. Sikaflex would be ok for a while but probably leak eventually. Make sure you seal the timber with an epoxy sealer first, glue this to the deck and then paint all over. Don't glue paint to the deck, it will come off, the glue bond will only be as good as the paint bond.
I'd use epoxy, good stuff. Epoxy sticks to polyester but polyester doesn't stick to epoxy. Polyester doesn't stick to timber either, not very well anyway.
Pull your finger out son, we want to see some progress by next weekend.